Le Tour du Luberon – by road

Before reaching Cavaillon, the starting point, we decide to visit a couple of celebrated villages that are typical of the region. In the heart of the Natural Regional Park, market towns display their light-coloured stone and splendid bastides perched on hilltops. We take a leisurely stroll down the narrow lanes and enjoy a refreshing pause in the shade. Artisans, boutiques with lovely scents and gourmet flavours… we’re falling under their spell!

Worth the detour

the village of Bories (stone huts); the Cistercian Sénanque Abbey; Bouillons Mill and the Glass and Stained Glass History Museum; Festival des Soirées d’Été (Festival of Summer Evenings) in August

Up at 7 o’clock for an early morning departure – we hop on our bikes and begin the journey along the limestone massif of the Petit Luberon, rising up between the plains of the Durance and the Calavon, vineyards and orchards. A little slope as we enter Cheval-Blanc to warm us up, followed by more slopes which become steadily bigger up to Beaumont du Pertuis. We pass the national forest, then follow alongside the pretty St Julien canal which proves to be a refreshing ride up to Mérindol. We timed it just right because Wednesday is market day! Hooray! We browse the market stalls and buy seasonal fruit and veg for our lunchtime picnic. Each food item we come across smells even better than the last! It’s still early in the morning but the heat of the sun is beginning to make itself known.

Did you know?

The Petit Luberon’s national forest is made up of live oaks, Aleppo pines and Atlas cedars. A real haven of scents!

Back on the road through the vineyards and orchards, and we reach Lauris, 10 km further up from Mérindol. We’re truly captured by the charm of the Provençal village (although our calves are starting to feel a little tired!). Here, we can see a beautiful panoramic view over the Durance Valley from the Château de Lauris, and admire its Remarkable Garden which is devoted to growing plants whose pigments are used in dyes.

15 km further on, we recommend making a little stop at Lourmarin. Its fountain offers a welcome respite from the sun and a good opportunity to take a photo of its Renaissance castle, nicknamed no less than the Villa Medici of Provence!

It’s past noon by the time we arrive in Cucuron for a well-deserved lunch break. With its lake and multi-coloured buildings, the entrance to the village is certainly inviting! Here we’ll make a stop to devour our market purchases.

Did you know?

The south Luberon often serves as a film set! In 1994 JP Rappeneau brought his cameras to Cucuron for the film adaptation of J Giono’s “The Horseman on the Roof”.

And here we are in Apt – historic town founded by the Romans and now… the world capital of candied fruit! Subprefecture of Vaucluse, this town has loads to offer:
– earthenware;
– an exceptional Provençal market on Saturday mornings, recognised for its authenticity and variety of local produce;
– a number of remains including Pont Julien and an archaeological museum;
– a notable religious heritage with the Cathedral (‘cathédrale Sainte-Anne’), one of the oldest churches in Provence and the oldest in the western world dedicated to the Mother of the Virgin Mary… In fact, the feast day of Saint Anne is in July, bringing the opportunity to see gospel performances – a delight for the ears! 🙂 Staying at the hotel of the same name (Sainte Anne), we leave our bikes to go and take a closer look at all these gems. And also to give our calves a bit of a rest! 😀

worth the detour

11 km north-east of Apt, Rustrel’s Provençal Colorado is the proud home of ochre quarries and natural scenery that resembles that of the American West. Walk on reddish-orange reliefs in a lush, green setting. Incredible, an absolute must-see!

This final stage is more demanding, but beautiful hills and spectacular panoramas have been saved till last. Prepare to pass through a series of wonderful… hilltop villages. The climbs may be a little more challenging, but the effort won’t seem as intense when you lose yourself in the view of the Ventoux, behind the Vaucluse plateau. Here on the northern side of the Luberon, our first two hilltop villages are ahead of us: the ‘Catholic’ Bonnieux, and Lacoste.

We finally reach the top of the first without difficulty. After stopping for some photos of the beautiful church tower, we continue towards Lacoste. This is something else, and our calves are certainly beginning to ache a little more! Never mind – the incredible view from the top is worth all the effort. And in Lacoste, an extra bonus is waiting for us: its castle and inspiring sculptures. I would call them ‘surrealist’, because personally I can see a little bit of Dali in them…

We allow ourselves a well-deserved break out on the terrace. I mean, have you seen this unbelievable panorama?

Did you know?

The village of Lacoste, in which the couturier Pierre Cardin has invested heavily (cultural festival, restoring the heritage), is also home to the Château du Marquis de Sade.

Only 29 km remain before getting back to Cavaillon and completing the loop! The changes in altitude begin to get lesser in terms of frequency and size, although there are still a few slopes to climb: Ménerbes, and Oppède-le-Vieux, perched on its rock. This village seems like it’s come straight from a Middle Ages film set. However, like always, the view is spectacular once you’re up there and we are so pleased (and admittedly, proud of ourselves) to have earned this panorama through the strength of our calves. Oppède is a very shady, mineral, and peaceful village – its old stone buildings make it a very charming place, like travelling back in time to the olden days.

Did you know?

The aromatic and botanical garden at Domaine de la Citadelle in Ménerbes is an absolute must-see. And its owner is none other than Yves Rousset-Rouard, the film producer of the cult comedy ‘French Fried Vacation’ (among others). He’s also Christian Clavier’s uncle!